For the people of Piedmont, bagna cauda embodies the warmth of a shared moment, paired with fresh seasonal vegetables and a glass of Barbera. It's an experience that goes beyond food: enjoying it means celebrating a connection to the land, authentic flavors, and the slow pace of time, allowing one to fully savor the company and the joy of the table.
Moreover, bagna cauda is deeply rooted in Piedmont's history. Originally a humble dish from rural areas, it has evolved into an icon of regional cuisine, celebrated today through events like the Bagna Cauda Day in Asti.
Let's dive into the story of this dish, which for the people of Piedmont symbolizes heart, tradition, and belonging.
Origins of Bagna Cauda
Foto: Bagna Cauda - Foto di Franco Bello
Born from rural simplicity, the recipe for Bagna Cauda has traveled through centuries, evolving from sapor rusticorum—a creamy, hearty medieval dish—to a true symbol of Piedmontese cuisine.
As early as the 14th century, garlic, the foundational ingredient of Bagna Cauda, was prized for its flavor and virtues, paired with salted anchovies brought to Northern Italy by merchants from Asti. This humble yet flavorful combination warmed tables and, according to old beliefs, may even have warded off witches (masche) and vampires!
Its fame spread far and wide. In 1855, General La Marmora served Bagna Cauda to the Piedmontese troops in Crimea, calling it a "dish for strong and valiant men, with flavors as fiery as musketry." A century later, this traditional dish reached an altitude of 4,482 meters when two Piedmontese climbers, Piero and Pinin Lampugnani, prepared Bagna Cauda at the summit of the Matterhorn.... read more»
But the journey of Bagna Cauda didn't stop there. From Tierra del Fuego to Japan, this dip has won hearts across the globe, bringing with it the essence of Piedmont and its convivial spirit.
Even Pope Francis, whose family has roots in Asti, is a devoted fan of the dish. He has had the pleasure of enjoying it on several occasions, both during his time in Argentina and on visits to Italy as a cardinal.
The Official Recipe
On February 7, 2005, the Asti Delegation registered what is considered "the most reliable and transferable" recipe for Bagna Cauda. This recipe, formally deposited in Costigliole d'Asti with a notarized certificate by Marzia Krieg, was selected after multiple tasting and review sessions by a study commission.
Ingredients for 12 people:
12 heads of garlic
6 wine glasses of olive oil (preferably extra virgin), and optionally, a small glass of walnut oil
600 g of Spanish red anchovies
Preparation
Prepare the garlic: Peel the cloves, remove the inner sprout, and slice thinly. Place the garlic in a terracotta pot, add one glass of olive oil, and cook over very low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, ensuring it doesn't brown.
Add the anchovies: Clean the anchovies by desalting, deboning, washing them in red wine, and drying them. Add them to the pot, stirring gently.
Cook slowly: Cover the mixture with the remaining oil and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes, ensuring the sauce never fries. For a softer taste, a small piece of fresh butter can be added towards the end of cooking.
Serve: Pour the Bagna Cauda into the traditional fujot (terracotta warmers). Serve with the following vegetables:
Raw: Nizza cardoons, Jerusalem artichokes, cabbage hearts, endive, escarole, fresh or pickled peppers, and quartered raw spring onions soaked in Barbera wine.
Cooked: Roasted beets, boiled potatoes, baked onions, fried pumpkin, and roasted peppers.
Finish with a flourish: At the end of the meal, it's traditional to "scramble" an egg into the remaining sauce to create a delicious final bite.
The 7 Key Steps to a Perfect Bagna Cauda
Essential tools:
A terracotta pot (dian).
A fujot or clay warmer filled with embers; alternatively, use an alcohol burner or gas stove with a flame diffuser.
A wooden spoon.
Soak the dian in cold water for at least two hours to prevent cracking during cooking.
Prepare the anchovies:
Soak the anchovies in cold water for 5–10 minutes. Remove the bones carefully, dry the fillets, and set them aside. Some prefer washing the anchovies in red wine or white vinegar.
Work on the garlic:
Use premium garlic varieties, such as those from Caraglio or Vessalico. Peel the cloves, halve them lengthwise, and remove the inner sprout. Place the cloves in a small saucepan, cover with fresh milk, and bring to a boil. Simmer gently for 15–20 minutes until the garlic is soft.
Start cooking:
Remove the soaked dian from the water and dry it thoroughly. Place it over a very low flame, with a flame diffuser if using gas. Add half a glass of oil, and when it begins to warm, add the anchovies. Stir with a wooden spoon until they dissolve into a smooth paste.
Add the garlic:
Drain the garlic from the milk and add it to the pot. Stir well, pressing the cloves with the spoon to create a creamy texture.
Finish the sauce:
Add the remaining oil and butter (if desired). Cook on very low heat for another 20–30 minutes, ensuring the sauce never fries.
Maintain the right temperature:
If you have a s-cionfetta or terracotta warmer, fill it with embers and ashes to keep the Bagna Cauda at the perfect temperature throughout the meal. Otherwise, use a fondue pot with an alcohol burner, but carefully monitor the flame to prevent overheating or cooling.
The Etiquette of Bagna Cauda: The Art of Dipping with Style
If it's your first time experiencing this iconic Piedmontese dish, some tips will help you fully enjoy the moment. There's a specific "etiquette" for Bagna Cauda enthusiasts:
Don't overdo it with the sauce: avoid "loading up" your vegetables, particularly using cabbage leaves or bread as a "shovel" to scoop up all the rich, creamy part of the sauce.
No double-dipping: never dip already bitten vegetables, a golden rule to maintain harmony at the table.
Watch the temperature: the first bites can be very hot, so proceed cautiously.
Sharing and respect: when using a single central terracotta pot, the lively chaos of the table relies on spontaneous turns and mutual patience. If you're using individual fujot (small terracotta pots), you can choose to share with your neighbor or manage your own portion, always respecting others.
Finally, serving hot broth before or after Bagna Cauda is a tradition that helps prepare or cleanse the palate.
A Dish That's Good for Your Health
Despite its richness, Bagna Cauda offers surprising health benefits thanks to its main ingredients:
Garlic: a powerful ally for cardiovascular health, helping to regulate blood pressure and cholesterol, with antimicrobial properties as well.
Extra virgin olive oil: rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds, it contributes to the prevention of degenerative diseases.
Anchovies: packed with Omega-3s and essential nutrients like iron and selenium, they support vascular and cellular health.
When accompanied by fresh and cooked vegetables, Bagna Cauda combines pleasure with well-being—provided you enjoy it in moderation, limit the bread, and don't go overboard with the wine.
Autumn: It's Time for Bagna Cauda Day!
For twelve years, the Astigiani Cultural Association has been organizing the Bagna Cauda Day, the world's largest communal bagna cauda event, held in late November. The event features participation from restaurants, historic wineries, and agritourisms, primarily in Piedmont, Valle d'Aosta, and Liguria, but also far beyond. In fact, the event has garnered international attention, with participants as far afield as China and New York.
In addition to its traditional program, the event expands each year with new initiatives. This year, for example, a caravan of vintage cars will travel from Liguria, ascending the Col di Nava to Piedmont, bringing with them—as modern-day Magi—the "foreign" ingredients of the bagna cauda: freshly pressed Taggiasca olive oil, anchovies from the Ligurian Sea, and garlic from Vessalico. To top it off, another event, the Bagna della Merla, will be held at the end of January.
The Bavagliolone (big bib) is the symbol of Bagna Cauda Day. Every bagnacaudista (bagna cauda enthusiast) enjoying the dish at participating venues will receive a complimentary fabric Bavagliolone. This year's design is by young artist Giorgia Sanlorenzo, who interpreted the motto "Esageruma nen, the world belongs to everyone"—a powerful call to protect our planet, our shared home, which has been so mistreated. Esageruma nen is a Piedmontese expression meaning "let's not overdo it."
